Hanoi – Vietnam – Seaneen's Sunnyside Kitchen

I’m not going to be coy, I absolutely loved Hanoi.

I didn’t know a huge amount about Hanoi or Vietnam so wasn’t sure what to expect (which is probably the best way to visit a place).

That being said Hanoi has a serious smog problem, so if you have serious respiratory issues, definitely wear a mask and keep an inhaler handy. The city is home to more than 8 million people and has at least 6 million mopeds. The country is working on building their own electric vehicles but the cost makes these inaccessible to most people.

If you want to learn more about the food or culture of the city I would definitely recommend getting in touch with Hanoi Kids, http://www.hanoikidsorg  This is a non profit organization where college students meet up with you and can show you around based on what your interests are (and also gives the students a chance to practice their already excellent English). We met up with 2 fantastic students Tom and Noonn who were great company. I wanted to know more about the city’s food scene and they took us to places we would never have ventured (I’m talking up back alleys to eat delicious Pho at the back of someone’s house). There is no formal charge for this, but you should tip your guides well as they do an excellent job and this goes back into the club.

They also introduced me to Vietnamese egg coffee. The thought of egg and coffee in the same cup didn’t sound too appealing, but it’s definitely worth trying (and doesn’t taste eggy). It was invented after the war when dairy was scarce. The coffee is almost a mousse and would remind you of tiramisu and the cup is served in a bowl of hot water to keep it warm. Coffee with condensed milk is also popular and Vietnam grows and produces excellent coffee.

The city is full of history, and the Hao Lo prison should definitely be on your itinerary. The prison was formally known as the Maison Centrale, and was a large foreboding prison expanded by French colonial forces when they invaded the country in the late 19th century. Needless to say the French did some very bad shit and the Vietnamese people were treated appallingly while fighting for independence. Being able to stand in the cells, see the guillotine used and hearing first hand accounts from prisoners brings a very dark period to light and shows the bravery and resilience of the people. The prison was also known as the Hanoi Hilton and was home to captured US military pilots in the 1960s and early 1970s. The exhibition showed some of the military personnel from both countries working together since the war to help identify and repatriate those who died in an attempt to reconcile the past. This was a very moving place to visit and gave a good background on Vietnam ‘s more recent history.

If you feel like a slightly lighter visit, the Thang Long Imperial Citadel is also worth a visit. Located in central Hanoi, the citadel dates back to the 10th century and was home to different dynastic royal families and imperial administration. Historically, doctorates and laureates were awarded at the citadel, so when we visited a lot of high school kids were graduating and it’s traditional to visit the site. There were also several school field trips with younger kids visiting who were exceptionally sweet and well behaved, shouting hello and waving to us. Education and literacy are extremely important to the Vietnamese and you will see book shops everywhere.

While the city is large, if you base yourself in either the old or French quarter you will probably be within walking distance of most of the sites worth visiting. The area around the Thang Long lake is pedestrianised at the weekends and you’ll find families out with young kids enjoying street entertainment and night markets and it is a great way to kick back and enjoy the city.

If you’ve had enough walking but aren’t going to far, you can also take one of the bicycle rickshaws you’ll see across to the city. I’m still going to recommend using the ride service GRAB (not sponsored by them, but open to it). You can use this to book a taxi, or hop on the back of a moped at a cheaper rate (no amount of money would pay me to do this, as traffic signals seem to be little more than a suggestion).

No visit to Hanoi would be complete without a visit to Train Street. It is literally a narrow street lined with bars and cafes where you can watch a train cut right through the middle of the street. It’s great fun and worth dropping by when a train is due and the surrounding streets also have great places to eat and drink. Small low seats and tables right on the street are normal, but you can also find higher seats easily enough.