Bali is my happy place, and I was lucky enough to visit a new area in the eastern part of the island called Sideman (syd-a-min).
We arrived at night, not knowing much about the area, apart from it was still pretty rural. We stayed in the gorgeous Bebek Biru, which is a home stay (a Balinese bed and breakfast) which had two terraces to sit and enjoy the breathtaking views. Sideman village is still very traditional with a daily food market.
About 5-10 minutes walk outside the village, the area caters more to tourists and is dotted with home stays and warungs (traditional Balinese cafe/restaurant). When travelling to Bali you can only exchange money into the local currency once you are inside the country. Sideman didn’t seem to have any currency exchange shops, so remember to exchange cash before arrival, as most small local businesses still only operate with cash.
My first morning I was woken to a sensory overload of local nature. Cicadas were thrumming, water buffalo mooing, bullfrogs croaking, roosters crowing and geckos chirping, as well as the ever present drone of small vespa mopeds that both locals and tourists use to get around. Everywhere you go you’ll be treated to amazing views over the lush mountain forests and expertly manicured rice terraces.
The views from all over Sidemen are spectaclular. Bali is especially reliant on the tourist trade and the Covid lock down hit small local businesses especially hard. Many businesses have numerous side hustles, as making a living is so tough. While you may be in a home stay they can also arrange escorted tours, beauty treatments, cooking classes, moped hire etc. The locals are incredibly hard working and industrious.
I’ve always been impressed by the sweetness and generosity of spirit the Balinese have. Their warmth and kindness, after the cynicism and self centeredness of the west is disarming. This was very much the case when I visited Bukit Artha Warung. Komeng, the owner was funny and totally adorable and took great pride in making sure his guests enjoyed their food and even insisted we take an umbrella on an evening when it rained. Warung Deva also became a favourite.
Sideman is still very rural, so if you’re looking for bustling nightlife it maybe isn’t for you. However, you can still find plenty to do. The local warungs offer excellent Indonesian food and also western dishes, and can provide traditional Balinese cooking classes. If you feel like treating yourself there are any number of local beauty shops where you can enjoy all manner of beauty treatments at extremely reasonable prices. A 1 hour traditional massage costs between £6-9, if you haven’t had one of these before then you are definitely in for a treat.
If you enjoy a more active holiday, locals can arrange guided treks of the rice terraces and local mountains, white water rafting and visits to local places of interest such as beautifully decorated temples and waterfalls. Tukad Cepung waterfall is especially lovely, but it’s quite a physical climb up and down some very steep stairs, so bare this in mind if you have dodgy knees etc, when you get there its worth it, but go early to avoid the Instagrammers, posing for ages. In the last couple of years there have been issues with Instagrammers trying to do things like pose naked, or refusing to wear sarongs when visiting sacred sites. While I struggle to understand this sort of moronic behaviour, it’s important to be respectful of local culture and behave accordingly.
It’s possible to hire a guide and driver for a very fair price. We got to see stunning temples like Pura Kehen, carved with stunningly beautiful craftsmanship. A little bit of haggling might be acceptable, but please remember that the locals had nearly 3 years without any income at all, surviving only on what they could grow in the fields. So be a good guest and pay fairly for the excellent service you’ll invariably receive.
Sideman feels a bit like stepping back into a simpler time. Locals still thresh rice manually in the fields. If you live in the West and have ever complained about how hard you work, trust me, you haven’t seen hard work until you have seen rice farmers toiling in the heat. It was also refreshing to see a group of boys probably about 10 – 13 laughing and joking, out flying kites (which the Balinese love) and huddled together under a tree to try get some shade. If they were in the West, they would mostly likely be inside on a Xbox or some other screen.
If you get a chance to visit Bali and want a break from the hustle and bustle of some of the busier resorts, you’ll love Sidemen. It may be one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.
Seaneen's Sunnyside Kitchen 